Guides · Burgers
Smash burger:
the crust is the point.
Fatty beef, a smoking pan and one hard press. Here's how thin patties get a lacy, deeply browned crust, and how to stack them.
01
Buy fat. Roll it loose.
America's Test Kitchen uses 80 percent lean ground beef, rolled into rough 2-ounce balls, and is blunt about leaner beef: it "will produce a dry burger." Don't pack the balls. Plain store-bought grind holds together well when you smash it.
80% lean · 20% fat
Juicy, with fat to fry the crust
The recipe's pick.
90% lean · 10% fat
"Will produce a dry burger"
America's Test Kitchen's warning about going leaner.
02
A heavy pan, smoking hot
Use a 12-inch cast-iron or carbon-steel skillet. Oil it and warm it over medium-low for 5 minutes, then turn it to high and start when it begins to smoke.
- Cast iron
On the recipe's list.
- Carbon steel
Also on the recipe's list.
- Stainless steel
The recipe says to avoid it for this.
- Nonstick
Also ruled out. The patty needs to stick to brown well.
03
Smash it flat, and let it stick
Two balls go in about 3 inches apart. Press each one firmly with the foil-wrapped bottom of a saucepan until it's 4 to 4½ inches across.
Sticking is the goal. A stuck patty has made full contact with the pan and browns deeply and evenly. One that doesn't stick shrinks and loses browned surface, and with it flavor.
2″ ball
Press to smash. Aim for 4 to 4½ inches.
04
Salt the patty, not the mix
For ground beef, salt late. America's Test Kitchen found that the longer the meat sat with salt, the firmer and springier the burger. The smashed-burger recipe sprinkles ⅛ teaspoon on each patty right after smashing.
Tender and loose
The salt seasons the surface without time to firm up the meat.
Firm and springy
The longer salt sits in the meat, the firmer and springier it gets.
05
Two minutes, then fifteen seconds
Cook until at least three-quarters of the top is no longer pink, about 2 minutes. Scrape under it with a thin metal spatula; having to scrape is a good sign. Flip, top with cheese and give it 15 seconds.
American cheese melts smoothly because of melting salts such as sodium citrate, which loosen the grip between the cheese's proteins. The recipe favors Kraft Singles for meltability.
2:00
Smashed and salted? Start the clock.
06
Build the stack
Two thin patties mean more crust, and cheese between them that seeps in like a sauce. Toasting the buns is up to you.
On the channel
Four patties and all that melted cheddar
Our quad-cheese smash burger short, made to be watched with the sound on. Press play to load it from YouTube.
Quad cheese smash burger
Short · Watch on YouTube